Thursday, February 24, 2011

Tips for Protecting Underground Water Lines from Gophers













photo credit:
Mark Gocke/Star-Tribune correspondent

The gopher in the picture above is doing an impressive job of moving a pretty significantly sized rock out of its tunnel, but did you know that a gopher will normally burrow around a gravel-lined trench - if the gravel is 1-inch in diameter or larger? So if you want to protect your underground irrigation and water supply lines from gopher damage, lay them in gravel. Pebbles smaller than an inch in diameter can more easily be pushed through or to the surface, but you may thwart them with six to eight inches of coarse gravel.

You can also protect buried water lines by enclosing them in some kind of material that acts as a sleeve as long as the outside diameter exceeds 2.9 inches (7.4 cm). Gophers can open their mouths about an inch wide (measuring the distance between their upper and lower incisors). The recommended diameter essentially provides for a flat surface wide enough such that a gopher can't get a bite in edgewise. And soft metals like copper and lead don't really work. Gophers can get through them.

The gravel trench seems simpler but that would depend on your situation.

And here's another amazing little factoid about gophers: Gopher can close their lips behind their four large incisor teeth to keep dirt out of their mouths when using their teeth for digging. That is amazing.

Wednesday, February 16, 2011

DIY: Clearing Simple Toilet Clogs



Having a few basic tools on hand at home really helps in resolving simple problems yourself. One of the most basic and helpful tools has got to be the toilet plunger. Clogs may not happen often, but when they do they can be really inconvenient. Murphy's Law has them happening after hours or (better yet) on a holiday when you have a house full of people. Not always the easiest times to call on a plumber to help you out.

Fortunately, an inexpensive plunger can clear most simple clogs. Do yourself a big favor and keep one on hand. Choose either the basic type (the red one) or the type with an extended cup (the black one) for a better seal and easier plunge.

And then, if or when that fateful time comes, when your toilet refuses to drain, follow these simple steps and we think you'll find success!

1

First, take a quick inventory of small items that might have inadvertently fallen into the bowl. A toy, lip stick or other toiletry (and we've see weirder than that) could have dropped into the toilet and gone partially down the drain line or even be lodged in the toilet's trap. If either is the case, you might need to call in a plumber. But if nothing seems to be missing, you may just be dealing with a simple clog that can be cleared with a plunger.

2

This from the Just In Case Dept: put some old towels or rags on the floor around the toilet just in case of spills, drips or splashes. You never know but best to be prepared.

3

The level of the water may very well have risen perilously close to the top of the bowl. To avoid a real mess, scoop water out of the toilet bowl into a bucket. Leave enough water in the toilet bowl to cover the plunger

4

Insert the plunger into the toilet, making sure the rubber cup is fully seated over the drain opening and covered with water.

5

Push the plunger handle down firmly. Increase pressure on the clog by pushing and releasing the plunger 10 to 15 times. Avoid wild or sloppy action or you could damage the toilet. If the clog isn't too tight or too far along the drain line, the increased water pressure caused by the plunger will probably clear the obstruction.

6

When you think the clog has move, be brave and go ahead and flush the toilet. As a precaution, have the toilet tank lid off and be ready to stop the water flow by raising the ball in the toilet tank.

7

If the clog stubbornly resists your most earnest plunging, a toilet auger and/or a call to the plumber may be needed. Lost objects almost certainly will require an auger to free up - and it's quite possible the toilet will need to be removed and turned upside down to retrieve any objects caught in the toilet itself.

We've also heard that a squirt of dish soap followed by a dose of warm water has been known to help free up clogs, but we haven't tried it ourselves so don't quote us on that.

If you do have any difficulties, you know you can call us. We're here to help.
Boden Plumbing
Sonoma, Napa and Petaluma - 707 996 8683

Wednesday, February 09, 2011

Keeping Water Clean with
Backflow Prevention Devices


Since property owners in Sonoma Valley with backflow prevention devices will soon be getting notices for their annual testing, we thought it was a good time to post something on the importance of making sure your backflow is functioning properly.

Casey Boden is certified to test, repair and replace these gizmos - and he recently returned from Sacramento where he completed classes to keep his certification up to date - so we're ready for all your calls and questions.

The most likely reasons for having a backflow prevention device at your property are

  1. your irrigation system
  2. you are connected to both a well and the public water supply
  3. you have a fire sprinkler system
Backflow prevention devices are basically designed to keep the water in your system from migrating into and mingling with the public water supply. Annual testing may seem like a hassle, but every year there are thousands of reported cases of backflow contamination. Vigilance and regular maintenance are the best ways to prevent even more cases and potentially dangerous contamination.

A number of things can cause a device to fail. Debris can work its way into the mechanism, causing it to jam or malfunction. Corrosion and simple wear and tear take a toll over time. Ground shifting, especially common in earthquake country, can also contribute to problems.

The test is relatively simple, and you usually don't have to be home when the test is done. Casey does have to turn the water supply off very briefly, so if there are uses onsite that can not be interrupted, it's good to plan around them.

It's also good to be aware of where your device is installed and keep brush trimmed back from the area. If Casey's been to your place before, he probably remembers where your backflow is located but it helps if you know in case he has to ask.

With regular maintenance, most tests go off without a hitch. When a device fails, repairs are usually pretty straightforward, although sometimes a part needs to be ordered. It's not usual that the whole valve needs to be replaced, but it does happen. Old valves wear out.

If you have any questions, call the office (707-936-8683). And when you get that [annoying] notice in the mail, remember you can call us for testing. We'll get you on the schedule, Casey will swing by, and we'll submit your paperwork to the water department for you. Pretty painless - and so important.

photo credit: Magnus Franklin

Wednesday, February 02, 2011

Over or Under? That is the Question.



And apparently 'over' is the answer.

We've never come across such a compelling and well-reasoned explanation for why draping the end of the toilet paper over the top of the roll is good and letting it hang over the back of the roll is the wrong way around. Check out the full report here on currentconfig.com. There are diagrams and everything.

The question of how to hang the toilet paper is one that has split almost more families than the War Between the States. Crazy really, because it must be one of the dumbest things to argue about on the planet, but bathroom etiquette and tradition is Big. Read more about it here on en.wikipedia.org if you don't believe us.

We're going to stir the 'other' proverbial pot here and come down on the side of over - while acknowledging there may be reasons to depart from what is correct and go for under. Reasons that involve cats and kids and eccentric tear-off methods, arguably valid in special circumstances but not in the official manual so to speak.

So...can we say it's settled then? ;-)

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